Road Trip Adventures 9: Northern Spain
This is the seventh post in our series of Adventure Ideas for European family road trips, brought to you in conjunction with Avis Car Hire. This week we’re off to Northern Spain, on a journey of two halves. Sandy beaches and family attractions punctuate the first half of this itinerary, until sun and sea become saint and sinner when you start to follow the route of thousands of pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela. Then it’s a loop back through some of Spain’s classic cities to Bilbao where modern art meets the outdoors….
In the beginning there was Bilbao
Is it possible to stand outside the Guggenheim in Bilbao and not be in awe of this landmark building? I challenge you to view that wonky, blingy, fantastical architecture without breaking out into a smile. But don’t stand around for long; there’s loads to see in Bilbao as we begin our journey around Northern Spain. Check out the sculptures on the riverbank, the fascinating Maritime Museum, the atmospheric Old Quarter and Bilbao’s oldest building, the Gothic Santiago Cathedral (a warm up for a later part of the itinerary) .
When you’ve had your fill of a city that excels in modern design, it’s time for some fresh air. Hop in your car and let’s go, but do take care while driving the coast road from Bilbao; it’s a busy strip!
Emergency beach stop
If the weather is good and you’re keen to have a beach stop, like NOW, then go directly to Gexto, a Biscay town close to Bilbao with a generous helping of bays with beaches ranging from sand to pebble. There are some great dunes and towering cliffs on offer, and if you’re feeling energetic you can indulge in watersports including surfing. If you’re lucky you might even catch a beach football tournament; they’re held regularly at Ereaga.
Or if you can hold out head West to Santander where you can expand your coastal horizons even further with lighthouse walks around the Magdalena Peninsular or swimming at El Sardinero beach. Santander has a pretty historic quarter too with buildings set between mountains and the sea. If you don’t like the idea of going up mountains or want to get out of the sun, you can go underground to view the masterpieces of creative Paleolithic genius that is the cave art in the nearby World Heritage listed Altamira Caves. Santander is part of the Costa Verde, Green Spain, a region of lush vegetation that is ripe for exploring. And full of colourful surprises.
Carrying on around the coast, ports like Ribadesella are ideal for a pitstop. You’ll find some great bars and restaurants in their maze of streets serving fish dishes such as centolla (crab) and lubina (sea bass).
Further West Oviedo is famous for its festivals, the most famous of which is San Mateo, an eclectic celebration of opera, rock, pop, sporting events and bull fighting, held in late September. Oviedo is also a lively student town and the capital of the region of Astrias. The aquaduct, the city walls and the fountain are also worth a look.
Inland for a change of scenery. And subject.
There are plenty more coastal gems to be explored, but if you fancy something completely different, then a couple of hours drive across stunning Asturian countryside, will take you to Santiago in Galicia.
Santiago de Compostela is a world capital of pilgrim travel as the city marks the end of the Camino de Santiago – an ancient pilgrim route across Europe. In peak time it can be choc-a-bloc with people looking for salvation or a cheap place to stay, but at any time of year it’s a vibrant and beautiful city. We cycled the Camino a few years back and it was one of the most beautiful and moving journeys we have done. While in the city take in the golden splendor of the Cathedral that houses the bones of a Saint, and marvel at the giant botfumario that takes eight priests to swing it. Or just enjoy the celebrations as people come to an end of their monumental walks. (Unfortunately driving there doesn’t count towards a ‘compostela’ – or pilgrim certificate. Although if you wanted one you could always ditch the car 100kms from the city and walk in.) You can buy all manner of souvenirs with a Saint’s face on, and you can eat a special pilgrim’s bakewell tart.
And now for something different again. Heading East once more will take you to Lugo where you’ll want to park up and head for the best preserved Roman Walls in Spain. They just about encircle the town. If you really like Romans then there’s an annual three 3-day Roman Festival every June, where dressing up is the thing. Whilst you are foot, you should also visit the town square (Plaza Mayor)
Further on, in Astorga, stop a while and have a coffee or two in the town square. It is a pretty, cultural and sociable community and if you look to the roof of the buildings you can watch the storks fly in and out of their nests. One of the highlights of a visit is the Gaudi Palace. It was designed by Gaudi and started in 1889. But it wasn’t finished until two decades later. While it looks like a Gothic castle, it’s a former Archbishops residence and houses a huge Episcopal museum filled with art work. And there are three enormous angels in the gardens. Get there before the pilgrims do and you might beat then into heaven!
27 miles on from Astorga is Leon. It’s a lion of cities, packed with history (yes, more Roman walls!) and life. It’s literal translation is legion and the Old Town is based on the old barrack blocks. Leon is a lovely place to stroll; take a walk by the river, visit the market or hang out in one of the tapas bars with a beer. Oh and it also has one of the most magnificent churches in the world. Did I mention that?
Talking of churches, Burgos has another gem. It’s the ultimate in extravagant, ostentatious, Gothic cathedrals and is the third largest church in Spain. It has been said this cathedral must have been built by angels, and you can see a few of them in the hundred statues that line the walls, ceiling and floor. And if you appreciate statues, it’s worth heading over to the arch or Arcos de Santa Maria, built into the ancient wall of the city. This actually has its own Guardian Angel, protected by stone macebearers. Burgos also has a little tourist train on wheels that takes up to the viewpoint of El Mirador so you can admire and take photos of the surrounding area. It also saves you hiking around in the heat.
Now it’s time to grab your wheels and make the short drive back to Bilbao. Your journey is now done. If you’ve still a few hours to spare, why not have a coffee and sit outside and admire that awesome Guggenheim building once again. Like a fine Spanish wine, it gets better over time.
Have you been to Northern Spain? Got an idea or suggestion for a place to eat or visit, something interesting to see or do? Why not share it with us as a comment.
Disclosure Note: This post was brought to you thanks to the support of Avis Car Hire. All the research, ideas and opinions remain, as ever, entirely our own.